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Naveran: A Garden Planted for the Soul — judge.wine


judge.wine  ·  Estate Reports  ·  Cava  ·  Penedès

Penedès · Catalonia · Spain
Cava Guarda Superior  ·  Estate Visit

A Garden
Planted for
the Soul

Inside Naveran — the house of cypresses, where 19th-century Modernisme meets a radical new vision for long-aged Cava

judge.wine

Estate Report

Kateryna Yushchenko DipWSET

There are estates that produce wine, and there are estates that embody an idea. Naveran, perched in the highest reaches of the Penedès, has always belonged to the second category — planted not merely to yield a harvest, but to nourish something less tangible.

Surrounded by sentinel rows of cypress trees, its vineyards were laid out as a garden rather than a farm — a deliberate act of beauty in an era when beauty mattered, when winemakers, architects and poets alike believed that the countryside deserved its own Modernisme. Today, under new ownership and a reinvigorated philosophy, Naveran is in the midst of its most ambitious chapter yet: longer aging, lower dosage, and an uncompromising return to indigenous varieties as the bedrock of identity.

This is the story of where that conviction comes from — and where it is going.

I

The Man Who
Came Back Rich

The story of Naveran begins with a departure. In the middle of the nineteenth century, a young man named Pablo left Catalonia with little more than ambition, joining thousands of his countrymen who scattered across the Americas in search of fortune — some to Cuba, some to Chile, some to Argentina. Not all of them succeeded. Many returned empty-handed. Pablo was not among those.

He came back wealthy, and his return was unmistakable. The so-called Americanos — Catalans who had made their fortunes in the New World — were easy to spot: white suits, Panama hats, and a taste for grand gestures. Pablo married the daughter of the Marquis of Naveran, acquired an estate he had known since childhood, and in 1889 carried out what his descendants still describe as the largest single planting the area had ever witnessed.

Everything was landscaped as a garden, and each vineyard is surrounded by cypress trees. People know Naveran as the house of the cypresses.

— Estate Guide

The choice of Parellada as the dominant variety gave the house its familiar name — Can Parellada, the house of the Parellada family. But the spirit of the planting owed as much to aesthetics as agronomy. Pablo was captivated by Modernisme, the Catalan expression of Art Nouveau sweeping through Barcelona’s drawing rooms and building sites, and he brought that sensibility to the countryside. Vineyards did not simply have to produce; they had to be beautiful. The house of the cypresses was planted as a statement of civilisation.

It was also, historically, the moment when Cava came into being as a distinct tradition — bubbles were a novelty, daring, a symbol of creative optimism — and Naveran embraced that momentum from the start.

1880s
Pablo returns from the Americas wealthy; marries into the Naveran marquessate family and acquires the estate.

1889
The largest single vineyard planting in the area’s history, dominated by Parellada and designed according to Modernisme principles, with cypress borders as defining landmarks.

20th Century
The estate passes through generations; sharecropper families — parcers — cultivate the vines under traditional arrangements, paying rent in kind with a portion of the harvest.

2024
Long-time custodian Michel, at 81, seeks a successor aligned with his legacy. The estate is acquired by the Rocqueta family, owners of Abadal, whose documented winemaking history stretches back to 1190.

II

Three Soils,
One Estate

Geography shapes everything at Naveran. The estate sits in the northernmost and most elevated sector of the Penedès, facing the mass of Montserrat directly to the north — a position that sets it apart climatically from both the coastal warmth of the Costa del Garraf and the sun-scorched central plains. Average temperatures hover around 14°C. Annual rainfall reaches roughly 600 mm: not abundant, but significantly more than the 300 to 400 mm recorded on the other side of the mountain.

What makes the estate genuinely complex, however, is not simply its altitude but the way that terrain fragments into three distinct soil profiles, each contributing a different dimension to the final blends.

Elevation Profile — Naveran Estate
Upper Hills
Higher erosion rates; leaner soils with pronounced tension
→ Adds grip and structural acidity to blends

Middle Terraces
Marine sediments, visible fossils; the source of salinity and minerality
→ The mineral signature of Naveran Cavas

Valley Floors
Deep soils near the creek; higher yields and cool freshness
→ Primary home of Parellada

The tripartite structure is not merely a curiosity — it is a winemaking tool. The vintage collection Cavas are explicitly assembled to leverage the contrast: if freshness is lacking, grapes from the valley floors are weighted more heavily; if tension and length are needed, the hill vineyards provide the counterpoint. Single-vineyard expressions, by contrast, surrender that flexibility in exchange for purity of character.

14°C
Avg. Temperature

600mm
Annual Rainfall

80ha
Total Estate

250k
Bottles per Year

III

The Grammar
of Cava

To understand what Naveran is becoming, one must first understand what its three core varieties can and cannot do — and why the incoming team’s conviction falls, resolutely, on one of them above all.

Xarel·lo
The Skeleton

The Rocqueta team calls it the Catalan Chardonnay — not for its flavour, but for its structural versatility and generosity of purpose. Thick-skinned and Botrytis-resistant, Xarel·lo provides acidity, boldness and exceptional aging potential. It is equally at home in stainless steel, amphorae or oak. The estate’s future rests squarely on it.

Long-aging · Dominant

Macabeu
The Bridge

The traditional middle note of the Cava blend — lighter in frame than Xarel·lo, less aromatic in its youth than Parellada, Macabeu contributes body and roundness. It is the connective tissue that allows the other varieties to express themselves without disruption.

Balance · Integration

Parellada
The Soul

Delicate, floral, highly aromatic in youth — Parellada is the variety that gave the house its name. But it is also the most ephemeral: its beauty lies in volatile aromatics that time erases rather than transforms. For long-aged expressions of a decade or more, it is unsuitable. It thrives in entry-level and younger releases, but never in isolation for the cellar.

Fresh wines · Young blends

Whatever you imagine, you can try it with Xarel·lo. You can make a young wine, an aged wine, put it in amphorae, put it in barrel. I always say Xarel·lo is like the Catalan Chardonnay — it’s our skeleton.

— Estate Guide

The comparison to Chardonnay illuminates something important about the current transition. Michel, the previous owner — Swiss by origin, formed by Champagne references — favoured precisely that: a profile oriented toward freshness, international character, and Chardonnay’s particular elegance. Under his stewardship Naveran never adopted formal aging classifications, releasing wines at 18 to 24 months and positioning them in the younger, more accessible tier of the Cava spectrum.

The Rocqueta family’s arrival represents an inversion of that premise. Their track record in other appellations — recovering the first-ever 100% Picapoll, the first-ever 100% Mandó — signals an appetite for indigenous identity above internationalism. At Naveran, the question they asked first upon arrival was not “what can we make?” but “which are the best spots for Xarel·lo and Sumoll?” The local variety as compass point, not concession.

IV

The Wines:
Style in Motion

The current range at Naveran exists in a transitional state — partly a reflection of Michel’s legacy, partly the first articulations of the new direction. Understanding both helps locate where the estate is headed.

Vintage Collection
Multi-Vineyard Blend

The house’s entry expression: the classic trinity of Xarel·lo, Macabeu and Parellada, assembled from multiple plots across all three soil profiles of the estate. The current release carries a low dosage of 6 g/l as a Brut, with a parallel Brut Nature (zero dosage) available — and the latter increasingly the preferred direction. Disgorging begins at 25 to 27 months, with the ambition to push substantially further as stocks mature. All Naveran Cavas are vintage-dated without exception, from the youngest release to the longest-aged.

Perlas Blancas
White Pearls · Single Character

The prestige blanc de noirs expression: 60% Pinot Noir vinified as a blanc de noirs, combined with 40% Chardonnay — with the Chardonnay undergoing its first fermentation in oak barrel to develop complex tertiary notes. The resulting wine has a distinctly vinoso character, richer and more texturally developed than the vintage collection, and speaks directly to still-wine enthusiasts approaching Cava. Disgorging begins at 30 to 36 months.

Perlas Rosas
Rosé · Pink Pearls

The rosé counterpart to the Perlas Blancas, sharing a similar 30 to 36 month aging trajectory. Like all Naveran Cavas, vintage-dated and Cava Guarda Superior certified — organic viticulture by classification requirement.

Manuela
Still Wine · The Icon

The estate’s sole still wine and its longest-standing domestic icon: an oaked Chardonnay that has remained a benchmark in the Spanish market for its genre. Rare in the Spanish context — barrel-aged Chardonnay is an outlier on the peninsula — and still carried in export markets alongside its strong domestic presence.

On Dosage — A Philosophical Position

The new management at Naveran does not merely prefer lower dosage as a stylistic choice — they articulate it as an ethical position toward terroir. In their view, anything above 6 to 7 g/l masks rather than reveals the character of this particular estate: its salinity, its mineral tension, its cool-climate acidity. Brut Nature (zero dosage) is the target. The landscape, they argue, speaks clearly enough without sweetness as a mediator.

V

Crisis, Resilience,
and the Return of the Bush

The vineyard tells the story of the last decade bluntly. Four consecutive years of severe drought — conditions extreme enough not to reduce yields but to kill vines outright — cost Naveran 20 hectares of plantings, primarily younger blocks. The affected land now rests in guaret, fallow for a minimum of three years before replanting can begin.

The experience clarified several convictions that the new ownership has since adopted as doctrine.

First: the superiority of old vines in extremis. The ancient bush-trained vines — those planted in the traditional Goblet or en vas system — weathered the drought with dramatically greater resilience than the trellised younger plantings. Their deep root systems, their reduced canopy exposure, their decades of adaptation to this specific ground, made the difference between survival and death.

The old Xarel·los resisted pretty well. Xarel·lo can resist everything. But the younger vineyards — it was really, really serious here, almost 20 hectares lost.

— Estate Guide

The response is threefold. New plantings will default to bush vine (Goblet) training, reducing direct sun exposure on fruit and improving drought tolerance. Replanted land will prioritise Xarel·lo and Sumoll — the varieties judged most heat and drought resistant. And irrigation remains off-limits under the estate’s organic certification except as an absolute emergency measure, maintaining the agricultural philosophy that makes their Cava Guarda Superior status possible.

The climate irony is sharp: the same warming that is prompting growers across Europe to undertake leaf-removal to improve ripeness now has the team at Naveran discussing the reverse — how to shade the fruit, how to simulate the umbrella that the old vineyards’ foliage once provided naturally. The leaf-pruning of a generation ago has become the cautionary tale of today.

On Organic Farming — A Long-Term Logic

The estate team offer a pragmatic case for organics that transcends consumer messaging: conventional farming, they argue, may accelerate a vineyard to its peak — but that peak is also its ceiling. Once achieved, decline follows. Organically farmed vines, by contrast, can sustain and extend their productive prime across a century. The oldest Naveran blocks — some of the estate’s most valuable raw material — survive precisely because of generational care that pre-dates the chemical era.

VI

The Estate
Ahead

The Rocqueta family arrives at Naveran carrying eight centuries of documented winemaking continuity — including the experience of total loss. Their family records note 1883 as the year Phylloxera reached their vineyards and obliterated everything: the presses, the stocks, the plantings. That memory is institutional. It explains why no ungrafted vineyard exists on any of their properties, and why the choice of rootstock is never regarded as a mere technical decision.

The vision for Naveran is stated with unusual clarity. Three pillars: longer aging, lower dosage, indigenous varieties. The Cavas of the future will carry extended en rima time in the estate’s galleries, pushing well past the 18 to 24 month releases of the Michel era. The dosage ceiling is 7 g/l; anything above is described, without ambivalence, as counterproductive to what this land actually offers.

And the varieties: Xarel·lo, increasingly, as the primary voice. Sumoll returning to the hillsides where drought tolerance matters most. And somewhere, eventually, the recovery of forgotten local material — a tradition the family has already demonstrated at their Abadal estate with Picapoll and Mandó — applied now to the specific genetic heritage of this corner of the Penedès.

For me, the beauty behind wine is talking about identity — what is your land, and what is the stuff that only you can offer to others. Longer agings, lower dosage, indigenous grapes. This is the future of Naveran.

— Estate Guide

Standing among the cypress trees — planted 135 years ago as much for beauty as for boundary — it is easy to understand why this estate was worth fighting to preserve. The house of the cypresses was always about more than Cava. It was about the idea that the act of cultivating a place, with care and conviction across generations, produces something that no individual lifetime can fully account for. Pablo planted a garden. Michel tended it through the century. The Rocqueta family are now, with remarkable deliberateness, deciding what it will say next.

Tasted and reported at the Naveran estate, Penedès. All wines are organic certified and vintage-dated. Cava Guarda Superior classification requires minimum 18 months on lees; Naveran’s current releases begin disgorging at 25–36 months, with longer aging forthcoming.

judge.wine  ·  Estate Reports  ·  © Kateryna Yushchenko DipWSET


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